MSDMaking Some DoughCorey Coleman, Pastry Chef
The Journal

Layer Infinitum

Layer Infinitum

Croissants. I think of three things related to this luscious pastry:

1: It’s hard to spell

2: It’s hard to make

3: It’s hard to stop eating them

Truth be told croissants, aren’t overly difficult to make. They just require a great deal of exactness and the execution of making them and they need a great deal of time; making them from scratch makes you wish you could watch paint dry.

You start by making the base dough which acts as an envelope so to speak for the butter square you will later add to the center, as shown below.  Once this butter is wrapped in the dough and properly sealed on all sides you can then proceed to roll it out and create the layers.

Croissants and puff pastry are, honestly, extremely similar in the process of making them.  The only real difference is that you have a rising time with croissants and no rising time for puff pastry. The reason, however, that both take longer than a few simple mixing motions and “presto!” you’re done, is in the flakes.  How do both types of pastry get so flaky and puffy? Well, the key is in the layers….

“What layers?”  you may ask yourself.  The layer upon layer of butter, the dough has a hunk of butter placed in the middle and it is wrapped like a package to keep it all contained inside that dough.  As you continue to roll the dough, the butter disburses and gets thinner, but it all changes when you give it the “business letter fold”.  By folding it over itself and rolling it out again, you then create layers of butter inside the dough.  After this process is repeated several times, there is so much butter disbursed through the dough that when it bakes all that butter creates rich, flaky layers.

So from the rising time, which is considerable, you also have to chill the dough between each fold and roll, and you will typically do anywhere from four to six folds.  In the end the execution was…..fine I suppose, not perfect.  The result was also merely alright.   Indeed, I feel I need a lot more practice with this type of pastry. Mainly it came down to shaping them properly and the final rise.  The final rise I put many of them too close together and most of them became slightly too warm as the recipe suggested putting a heating pad on top of a lid or second baking sheet above the croissants.  My heating pad, sadly, seemed to be too hot even on the lowest setting and melted the butter in a lot of the croissants, effectively ruining most of the work I put into them. But that’s why we practice, so we can fail horribly, have a quick two hour cry in the corner, dust ourselves off and try again.  So you can be sure there will be a round two of these.

Reference recipe

Classic Butter Croissants

The croissant is a yeasted, laminated dough: a lean, lightly sweet base folded around a sheet of butter until it holds dozens of alternating layers. Its ancestor is the Austrian kipferl, brought to Paris in the late 1830s by August Zang's Boulangerie Viennoise, and French bakers turned it into the flaky laminated pastry we know by the early 20th century.

Makes 12 croissantsTime Active 90 min, total 2 days

Ingredients

Dough (détrempe)

  • 500 g bread flour, 11.5 to 12.5% protein (about 4 cups)
  • 140 g cold water (1/2 cup plus 1 1/2 tbsp)
  • 140 g cold whole milk (1/2 cup plus 1 1/2 tbsp)
  • 55 g granulated sugar (1/4 cup plus 1 tsp)
  • 40 g unsalted butter, soft (3 tbsp)
  • 11 g instant yeast (1 tbsp plus 1/2 tsp)
  • 12 g fine sea salt (2 tsp)

Butter block

  • 280 g European-style unsalted butter, at least 82% fat, cold (2 1/2 sticks)

Egg wash

  • 1 large egg
  • 1 large egg yolk
  • 15 g milk or cream (1 tbsp)
  • Pinch of salt

Method

  1. Mix all the dough ingredients on low speed for 3 minutes, then on medium for 3 to 4 minutes, until smooth but not fully developed. Rest covered at room temperature for 45 minutes, press into a 20 cm (8 in) square, wrap, and refrigerate overnight (8 to 16 hours).
  2. Pound the cold butter between two sheets of parchment into an even 18 cm (7 in) square. Chill it until firm but bendable, about 55-60°F (13-15°C). It should flex without cracking.
  3. Roll the dough to a 26 cm (10 in) square, set the butter on it turned 45 degrees like a diamond, and fold the four corners over to seal it in completely. Pinch the seams shut.
  4. Roll the package to a 20 x 60 cm (8 x 24 in) rectangle and fold it in thirds like a letter. That is one single fold. Wrap and chill for 30 minutes, then repeat twice more for three single folds in total, turning the dough 90 degrees each time and chilling between folds.
  5. After the last fold, chill for at least 1 hour. Roll the dough to a 24 x 66 cm (9 1/2 x 26 in) rectangle about 4 mm thick, trim the edges, and cut 12 tall triangles with 10 cm (4 in) bases.
  6. Cut a small notch in the centre of each base, stretch the triangle gently to lengthen it, and roll from base to tip without pressing down. Set on parchment-lined trays with the tip tucked underneath, 6 per tray.
  7. Brush lightly with egg wash and proof at 75-79°F (24-26°C) for 2 to 2 1/2 hours. They are ready when they have nearly doubled, the layers are visible at the cut edges, and the tray wobbles like jelly when shaken. Do not proof warmer than 82°F (28°C) or the butter will melt out.
  8. Heat the oven to 400°F (200°C). Egg wash a second time, avoiding the cut layers, and bake for 10 minutes. Reduce to 375°F (190°C) and bake 10 to 14 minutes more, until deep mahogany brown.
  9. Cool on a rack for at least 20 minutes before eating so the crumb can set.

Chef’s notes

  • Butter leaking in the oven almost always means underproofing or a proof that was too warm. Give the croissants the full time at a moderate temperature and look for the wobble.
  • If the butter shatters into pieces while rolling, it is too cold. Let the dough sit for 5 minutes and try again. If it smears or feels greasy, it is too warm: chill 20 minutes.
  • Dense, bready interiors come from pressing too hard with the pin or from too many folds. Three single folds give 27 butter layers, which is the classic count for an open honeycomb.
  • Shaped croissants freeze well before proofing. Thaw overnight in the refrigerator, then proof and bake as directed.
The two most debated methods

Straight dough or preferment?

Straight dough with an overnight cold rest

Ferrandi Paris, Le Cordon Bleu, Claire Saffitz

All the ingredients are mixed at once and the dough develops flavour slowly in the refrigerator. It is the standard French school method, gives a clean buttery taste, and is the method this recipe follows.

Poolish or other preferment

Thomas Keller and Sebastien Rouxel (Bouchon Bakery), Chad Robertson (Tartine)

Part of the flour and water is fermented for 12 hours or so before the final mix. Supporters argue it adds a deeper, slightly tangy wheat flavour and makes the dough more extensible and easier to roll.

Drawn from the methods of

  • Ferrandi Paris, French Pâtisserie (2017)
  • Thomas Keller and Sebastien Rouxel, Bouchon Bakery (2012)
  • Claire Saffitz, Dessert Person (2020)
  • Jeffrey Hamelman, Bread (2004)

Corey has not published his own formula for this piece. This reference recipe is compiled from the published methods of the chefs and bakers listed above, written in our own words.